North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii Audiobook (Free)

With this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii’s North Shore beginning in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area’s top notch, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii’s deadliest waves. Listed below are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the activity, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Tag Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.